Neshama 33

List of 23 items.

• Friday, March 21 - Saturday, March 22

  Celia:

  On Friday, we woke up early, feeling refreshed after a great night’s sleep in the tents, though the cold morning air made us shiver a bit. Excited for our final day of the desert experience, we quickly hopped on the bus. Once we arrived, we got straight to preparing a delicious breakfast of oatmeal. My group added apples to the mix, which really elevated the flavor. After enjoying our nutritious meal, we were energized and ready to begin our hike.
  
  

  The first part of the hike was a challenging uphill climb, but we supported each other, working together as a team. When we reached the top, the view was absolutely stunning. We played music, bonded, and enjoyed fun conversations along the way. We also played a game during the hike where a clip was secretly placed on someone’s backpack. If someone noticed it on their bag, they would transfer it to someone else’s. The person carrying the clip during a break had to sing a song in front of everyone, which led to plenty of laughs.

  Later in the hike, we took part in a solo hike, where we each walked alone through the nature surrounding us. It was a peaceful and reflective experience. Afterward, we gathered for lunch. My group prepared a delicious salad and a rice dish with onions and sausage. We also built a fire and grilled more sausage, which turned out to be absolutely delicious.
  
  

  Following lunch, we made our way to Kibbutz Ketura, where we were warmly welcomed with drinks and cookies, feeling grateful and ready to relax after a busy and rewarding week.

   

  Once we arrived at Kibbutz Ketura, we immediately began preparing for Shabbat. After three days in the desert, it felt incredible to shower and refresh ourselves. We then put on our beautiful Shabbat clothes and took some photos. Together, we celebrated with a heartfelt Kabbalat Shabbat, complete with singing and dancing.
  
  

  Soon after, we joined the entire Kibbutz for dinner. It was special to say the Kiddush and Hamotzi with the community. Following dinner, we had a lively Oneg Shabbat, where we sang more songs and enjoyed each other’s company. Afterward, we played some games before heading to bed.
  
  

  The next morning, we woke up early to attend the kibbutz’s Shabbat davening, which was filled with beautiful melodies and singing. We then gathered for a delicious lunch with the kibbutz community.

  The afternoon was free time, during which some people played games while others relaxed. We also participated in a powerful demonstration calling for the return of the hostages, which was deeply emotional.
  
  

  As Shabbat came to a close, we sang together and ended the day with a soulful musical Hav

• Thursday, March 20

  Eva:

  On Wednesday morning we left Kibbutz Tzeelim with bags packed in preparation for our upcoming days of hiking. We made a brief stop at the suspension bridge over Nachal haBsor, where we discussed the idea of "כָּל הָעוֹלָם כֻּלּוֹ גֶּשֶׁר צַר מְאוֹד..." and its relevance in our lives. 

  We then drove to Sde Boker to begin our first hike. After a couple hours of hiking, we took a break for lunch. We were split up into four cooking groups to prepare a meal with the ingredients we were given. We worked together to make dishes such as rice with caramelized onions, salads, and deli sandwiches. After cleaning up from lunch, we continued our hike until we reached the bus. During that hiking time, we did "solo hikes," walking separately to be able to focus on nature and our thoughts.
  
  

  At the end we had a nice long bus ride to Kibbutz Elifaz, where tents were set up for us and dinner was being prepared. We enjoyed dinner all together and got some much needed rest.
  
  

  On Thursday our hike was a little more intense. We started the day early and made breakfast on the trail. Throughout the hike we tried to keep our spirits high with songs and games. The day was filled with ups and downs, both in the hiking and in our feelings about it, but we all ended the day feeling incredibly accomplished. 
  
  

  For me, the most valuable part of this experience was the way that we all worked together, both in powering through tough trails and in cooking great meals.

• Monday, March 17 - Wednesday, March 19

  Katriela:

   

  On Sunday we began our final day of Purim in Jerusalem visiting two nursing homes, one called Kiryat Yovel and one in Talpiyot. We sang songs, talked, and played with balloons with the residents, and gave them the mishloach manot we had prepared. 

   

  After leaving the nursing homes, we walked past the massive Jerusalem Adloyada Purim parade. It was hot and sunny, and the streets were filled with vibrant floats, acrobats, dancers, and puppeteers. We had our pizur lunch on Ben Yehuda Street, which was crowded with people in elaborate and festive costumes. 

   

  Then, there was a shopping trip to the store across the street from Agron to buy ingredients for our barbecue in Gan Sachar. At the park, we played on the playground, took pictures, and cooked delicious pitot and burgers. Our last activity of the night was a birthday party for Oren’s eighteenth birthday, with lots of snacks and music. Happy birthday Oren!

   

  On Monday morning, we packed up the bus and drove to the city of Sderot in the Gaza Envelope. We began our visit by watching a film about the October 7th attack in Sderot, which focused on the fighting in and destruction of the police station, and the acts of heroism and bravery of that day. Our guide, Ari, brought us to the powerful memorials for the victims of October 7th at the former location of the police station and told us more detailed stories about some of them. 

   

  We drove to the Sderot lookout, which is also a memorial to four soldiers who were killed in a terrorist attack in 2014. From there, Ari showed us where we could see the rubble in Gaza and told us more about the lives of the people of Sderot regarding terrorism and returning to their city. 

   

  The final stop on the tour was at a playground, where we learned about the long lasting and traumatic effects of the rockets that have been fired at Sderot since 2001, and the attack on October 7th, on the children. This playground was unique. Not only did it have shelters, which are everywhere in Sderot, but it had shelters that were part of the playing. Two painted concrete caterpillars and a castle served as a place to play in addition to being safe places to hide in case of rocket fire. Seeing these made me sad, to think about the way these children have to be aware of rocket fire and terrorism from a young age but seeing the creativity and joy of these special shelters, how something that should be frightening was made into something fun, gave me hope. 

   

  After a pizur lunch in Sderot, we drove to a moshav called Netiv HaAsara, which is right next to the border with Gaza. There we heard from a woman named Rivka. She shared heartbreaking stories about the murders of members of the moshav on October 7th, including a close friend of hers who was killed in a shelter. 

   

  After she spoke, we visited the shelter where her friend was shot to death by Hamas, and saw the pictures and objects left there in her memory. We drove through the moshav, and Rivka showed us the homes where the murders she told us about took place. We reached the edge of the moshav, right near the border. There was a memorial for the victims, and beautiful “peace walls” where people write wishes on ceramic pieces and add to the mosaic, which we all did. Our visit ended with us singing Hatikvah under the tallest Israeli flag in the world. We drove to Kibbutz Tzeelim, where we ate dinner and would be staying for the next two nights. 

   

  On Tuesday morning I woke up and turned off my alarm and saw the message Rob sent us informing us about the end of the ceasefire. Although there was anxiety from this news, the group still had an incredible day. 

   

  We went to the Bedouin city of Segev Shalom, where a Bedouin man, Ali, taught us about the Bedouin society and culture, and especially about the family structures and hierarchies in Bedouin communities. We went into the city to volunteer, as it was Israel’s Day of Good Deeds, and to eat lunch. 

   

  After drinking tea, we went to clear out trash from where a building for the grandmothers of the community will be built as part of the work of the organization that hosted us, which we learned about more after an incredible lunch of Bedouin food. We heard from Amal Abo Alkom, who shared her life story and talked about the work she and others have done to further the education and rights of Bedouin women. 

   

  Our second stop was at a goat farm. We learned the history of the farm as part of a government project, and about what they do there. We had the opportunity to interact with the goat herd, and two sweet farm dogs, before tasting three different types of goat cheese they produce there. 

   

  Back at the kibbutz, after dinner, we had a talent competition hosted by Mishpachat Itai, which included interpretive dance, racing, and Israeli geography.

• Friday, March 14 - Sunday, March 16

  Ady:

  On Friday a lot of us chose to spend the second day of Purim sleeping in. For lunch, we went to the Shuk or to Ben Yehuda Street. When we came back, we all helped make Mishloach Manot by writing nice Purim cards to go along with the treats. After Shabbat candle lighting, we all walked to the egalitarian section of the Kotel to do Kabbalat Shabbat together, which was a very meaningful experience. Then we walked around the Kotel for a little while. There was a massive crowd there, and it was difficult to get to the actual wall. Despite being hungry for dinner when we got back to Agron, we had to wait a little while for tables to open up for us, but thankfully it didn't take too long, and we had a nice time together as a grade. After we ate, we all changed into pajamas and sang Shabbat songs together, and then we all created candy houses as part of the activity that Vaad Shabbat prepared for us.

   

  On Saturday morning the grade split into two groups. One group chose to go to shabbat services at Moreshet Yisrael at Agron, and the other went to Shira Chadasha. When we regrouped, we went upstairs for the first lunch not in the Agron dining hall, and afterwards we all rested and spent time together. It was very nice to get to spend Shabbat relaxing, even while we're not at home. Vaad Shabbat had us go on a scavenger hunt to different locations in Jerusalem, and it was special to get to bond with classmates who we might not generally spend time with. We all came back together and sang songs before Havdallah, and we ended the day with a Pizur at Ben Yehuda Street.

• Thursday, March 13

  Wednesday/Thursday is shared by Sol:

  On Wednesday, we had the opportunity to hear from two very different but equally impactful speakers, Bilal and Shaul from Roots. Both shared personal stories of their lives, offering insights into the intense emotions that come with living in such a conflict-ridden region. Rabbi Shaul Judelman, Root's Israeli co-director, spoke about the connection between fear, anger, and hate, which he believes fuels much of the conflict. While Bilal’s experiences were shaped by a more biased upbringing due to the second Intifada, Shaul’s personal trauma deeply affected his perspective. Both speakers opened our eyes to the deeply rooted hatred that has formed over generations.

   

  Later that day, we visited Yeshivat Har Etzion, where a rabbi explained the significance of Purim. He shared that even though God's name is not mentioned in the Purim story, God’s presence can still be felt. The rabbi used a glasses analogy to explain that just because we can't see something doesn't mean it's not there, encouraging us to look beyond the surface in life.

   

  We also had the chance to meet a friend of Rob, Shimon Palmer, who lives in the Tekoa Dalet Outpost. He shared the tragic story of how his brother and one-year-old nephew were killed in a terrorist attack. Despite living in an area considered an illegal settlement, he lives a simple life, growing olive trees and producing over 30 liters of olive oil last year. He showed us his home and explained his connection to the land.

   

  On Thursday, we heard from Yasmine, an Israeli Arab who lives in the village of Ein Rafa, who shared her experiences with Islam and what the religion means to her. She allowed us to ask questions and gave us a deeper understanding of her identity as both an Arab and an Israeli. To make the experience even more memorable, she brought out two baby lambs for us to meet—one was a brother, and the other his sister. I got to hold one of the lambs and that was definitely a highlight of my day. 

   

  We then visited The Benedictine monastery in Abu Ghosh, officially St Mary of the Resurrection Abbey, where a monk gave us a tour of the Crusader church. His beautiful voice and the stunning acoustics of the church created a peaceful and spiritual atmosphere.

   

  To end the programming for the day, we had a delicious meal at Abu Saeed in Abu Ghosh. We feasted on endless hummus, falafel, and pita.

   

  After the programming we went even further south to Lidor’s house in Moshav Mabuim in our partnership region - Merchavim, where we sat shiva for his younger brother, Liron. Lidor was our rishon at GOA last year and many of us built a strong bond with him. His brother was kiilled Saturday night in a tragic bus accident, he was only 17. We were able to comfort him and hear stories the family shared of Liron. I am very thankful that we got to see him and have the experience. 

   

  We got back to Agron later that night where we got ready for Purim and had dinner. Abby and I led our Purim experience doing Purim Shpiels in costume, playing a Neshama themed Kahoot!, and having Gamad V'Anak where we exchanged gifts. Our madrichim then gave us the true Purim experience by taking us out to Ben Yehuda . This was the best Purim I could have had.

• Wednesday, March 12

  Monday's reflection was shared by Nomi:

  We started the day with breakfast and a reminder to dress modestly, ensuring our legs were covered for the day ahead. We then boarded our bus to Gush Etzion, a region located in the West Bank, south of Jerusalem. Gush Etzion is a cluster of Jewish communities, and its location plays a significant role in the ongoing political situation regarding Israeli settlements in the West Bank.

   

  Our first meeting took place in Khaled Zakariya village, which is located in Area C, an area under full Israeli military and civilian control. We met Hamed, a humanitarian aid worker for the United Nations who lives in Hebron. Hamed discussed the challenges Palestinians face in the region, including difficulties obtaining permits for infrastructure projects like road paving. He explained that many Palestinians feel the Israeli military does not provide them with the necessary resources to thrive. As we walked through the village, Hamed shared his personal perspective on the political situation, including his view that Hamas is not a terrorist organization and his understanding of why the Red Cross could not intervene in the hostage situation. He explained that if the Red Cross had met with the hostages, it could have inadvertently provided the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) with information that would help them locate the hostages. Personally, I felt uncomfortable that Hamed, especially as a humanitarian aid worker, easily disregarded the hostages and denied the rape of women in the conflict. This sparked discomfort among some of us, but it also provided a valuable opportunity to hear a different perspective. I also asked Hamed if he is able to separate Israelis from the Israeli government, to which he said yes. This is an important distinction for Palestinians to be able to make, as not all Israelis support Netanyahu's government. At the end of the meeting, Hamed declined to take a photo with us, signaling that he considered meeting with a group of Jewish American students a risky decision, which we respected, since more extremist Palestinians in Hebron might harass him for meeting with us.

   

  Next, we met with Uri from the Sovereignty Movement at Oz V’Gaon. The Sovereignty Movement advocates for Israel to assert full sovereignty over Judea and Samaria, the term he and many Israelis use for the West Bank. Uri advocated for Israeli sovereignty over the region to ensure security and preserve Jewish heritage. He suggested Palestinians could be disarmed or live under Jordanian rule, voting in Jordanian elections. While some understood the focus on security, many felt the ideas were unrealistic and disregarded Palestinian self-determination. Some appreciated his stance, feeling more comfortable standing with the Jewish side of the issue. Others recognized that Uri’s ideas might be unrealistic, especially considering the complex and deeply entrenched conflict in the region.

   

  After our meetings, we had lunch in Efrat, a settlement in the Gush Etzion area. It provided an opportunity for a break and to reflect on the discussions we had just had. Following lunch, we visited the Gush Etzion Heritage Center, where we watched a film about the history of Gush Etzion. The film depicted the separation of families during the early years of the region’s establishment, with children sent to Jerusalem while their parents remained to fight. The story was emotional, but the uplifting portrayal of the new generation of residents in Gush Etzion was a hopeful conclusion.

   

  We then took time for Mincha, the afternoon prayer, and to our surprise, a cat appeared just as it was about to give birth. It was a light-hearted moment that brought some warmth to the day. We then made our way back to Agron, where we had some time to rest before dinner.

   

  The day ended with Zman Mishpacha, a family time gathering where everyone shared their reflections on the day’s experiences. Many expressed how the meetings had been thought-provoking but also difficult, each person processing the different perspectives in their own way. 

   

  We can only hope that, through continued conversations, understanding can emerge, and perhaps even a path toward a better future will be found.

   

  Afterward, Neshama members spent some time relaxing, playing cards, and chatting before heading to bed, ready to rest for the next day.

• Tuesday, March 11

  Adam:

  As the sun rose, Neshama resumed its programming. Everyone was either picked up in Tel Aviv, dropped off in Jerusalem, or awakening after a wonderful night’s sleep in Agron. For those who were picked up by Yehuda, our bus driver, in Tel Aviv, it was delightful to hear about everyone's weekend adventures.

   

  Our first activity of the day took place in Agron, a lesson on "The Many Faces of Israel". A significant part of Neshama centers on exploring the three primary Israeli faces: Jews, Muslims, and Christians. In addition, Rob reviewed general details, such as the West Bank’s geography, covering the various names for the West Bank, its distinct zones (Areas A, B, and C), and the Partition Plan.

   

  We remained focused as we gathered around the Agron amphitheater. Early on, we broke into our mishpachot to dive into discussions about Purim costume programming. Each mishpacha had to decide on its own unique theme. Amid the buzz, we were informed about the tight budget. This promises us days filled with careful negotiation and strategic planning at places like the Shuuk to keep our ambitions in check.

   

  Next, we headed to Mea Shearim, a Haredi/Hasidic Neighborhood in Jerusalem for lunch, which had plenty of kosher food options and Judaica goods. Many of us enjoyed pizza, ice cream, falafel, and a wide array of restaurants owned by the Haredi community. It was fascinating to not just learn about a community of Jews, but see it in person.

   

  Down the street of Ma Shearim, we ended our day by visiting The Belz Great Synogogue בית כנסת בעלז where we met our first, on this trip so far, Hasidic Jewish speaker, who shared insights into Haredi and Hasidic communities. His presentation, marked by his personal views on both Israeli and Jewish society, challenged many of us at Neshama, eliciting reactions that ranged from dissent, but for some, outright curiosity. Regardless of whether you agree or disagree with his opinions, it is essential to acknowledge and understand them, as they highlight perspectives that are deeply rooted in a community that plays a significant and integral role in Israeli society. I don't really agree with the Haredi’s opinions regarding the religious portions of Judaism and their solutions to it, but when it comes to the idea that Judaism is losing its defining aspects as it slowly fades away, I have to agree that it is happening, and something must be done beyond constantly reforming the religion, further dividing Jews into more groups. I felt honored and delighted by the respectful invitation to the Haredi synagogue, a gesture not often extended to non-Haredi individuals or “tourists” like ourselves. Afterward, we returned to Agron and enjoyed ample free time to process the information and prepare for the days ahead.

• Monday, March 10

  Nomi:

  We started the day with breakfast and a reminder to dress modestly, ensuring our legs were covered for the day ahead. We then boarded our bus to Gush Etzion, a region located in the West Bank, south of Jerusalem. Gush Etzion is a cluster of Jewish communities, and its location plays a significant role in the ongoing political situation regarding Israeli settlements in the West Bank.

   

  Our first meeting took place in Khaled Zakariya village, which is located in Area C, an area under full Israeli military and civilian control. We met Hamed, a humanitarian aid worker for the United Nations who lives in Hebron. Hamed discussed the challenges Palestinians face in the region, including difficulties obtaining permits for infrastructure projects like road paving. He explained that many Palestinians feel the Israeli military does not provide them with the necessary resources to thrive. As we walked through the village, Hamed shared his personal perspective on the political situation, including his view that Hamas is not a terrorist organization and his understanding of why the Red Cross could not intervene in the hostage situation. He explained that if the Red Cross had met with the hostages, it could have inadvertently provided the Israeli Defense Forces (IDF) with information that would help them locate the hostages. Personally, I felt uncomfortable that Hamed, especially as a humanitarian aid worker, easily disregarded the hostages and denied the rape of women in the conflict. This sparked discomfort among some of us, but it also provided a valuable opportunity to hear a different perspective. I also asked Hamed if he is able to separate Israelis from the Israeli government, to which he said yes. This is an important distinction for Palestinians to be able to make, as not all Israelis support Netanyahu's government. At the end of the meeting, Hamed declined to take a photo with us, signaling that he considered meeting with a group of Jewish American students a risky decision, which we respected, since more extremist Palestinians in Hebron might harass him for meeting with us.

   

  Next, we met with Uri from the Sovereignty Movement at Oz V’Gaon. The Sovereignty Movement advocates for Israel to assert full sovereignty over Judea and Samaria, the term he and many Israelis use for the West Bank. Uri advocated for Israeli sovereignty over the region to ensure security and preserve Jewish heritage. He suggested Palestinians could be disarmed or live under Jordanian rule, voting in Jordanian elections. While some understood the focus on security, many felt the ideas were unrealistic and disregarded Palestinian self-determination. Some appreciated his stance, feeling more comfortable standing with the Jewish side of the issue. Others recognized that Uri’s ideas might be unrealistic, especially considering the complex and deeply entrenched conflict in the region.

   

  After our meetings, we had lunch in Efrat, a settlement in the Gush Etzion area. It provided an opportunity for a break and to reflect on the discussions we had just had. Following lunch, we visited the Gush Etzion Heritage Center, where we watched a film about the history of Gush Etzion. The film depicted the separation of families during the early years of the region’s establishment, with children sent to Jerusalem while their parents remained to fight. The story was emotional, but the uplifting portrayal of the new generation of residents in Gush Etzion was a hopeful conclusion.

   

  We then took time for Mincha, the afternoon prayer, and to our surprise, a cat appeared just as it was about to give birth. It was a light-hearted moment that brought some warmth to the day. We then made our way back to Agron, where we had some time to rest before dinner.

   

  The day ended with Zman Mishpacha, a family time gathering where everyone shared their reflections on the day’s experiences. Many expressed how the meetings had been thought-provoking but also difficult, each person processing the different perspectives in their own way. 

   

  We can only hope that, through continued conversations, understanding can emerge, and perhaps even a path toward a better future will be found.

   

  Afterward, Neshama members spent some time relaxing, playing cards, and chatting before heading to bed, ready to rest for the next day.

• Sunday, March 9

  Adam:

  As the sun rose, Neshama resumed its programming. Everyone was either picked up in Tel Aviv, dropped off in Jerusalem, or awakening after a wonderful night’s sleep in Agron. For those who were picked up by Yehuda, our bus driver, in Tel Aviv, it was delightful to hear about everyone's weekend adventures.

   

  Our first activity of the day took place in Agron, a lesson on "The Many Faces of Israel". A significant part of Neshama centers on exploring the three primary Israeli faces: Jews, Muslims, and Christians. In addition, Rob reviewed general details, such as the West Bank’s geography, covering the various names for the West Bank, its distinct zones (Areas A, B, and C), and the Partition Plan.

   

  We remained focused as we gathered around the Agron amphitheater. Early on, we broke into our mishpachot to dive into discussions about Purim costume programming. Each mishpacha had to decide on its own unique theme. Amid the buzz, we were informed about the tight budget. This promises us days filled with careful negotiation and strategic planning at places like the Shuuk to keep our ambitions in check.

   

  Next, we headed to Mea Shearim, a Haredi/Hasidic Neighborhood in Jerusalem for lunch, which had plenty of kosher food options and Judaica goods. Many of us enjoyed pizza, ice cream, falafel, and a wide array of restaurants owned by the Haredi community. It was fascinating to not just learn about a community of Jews, but see it in person.

   

  Down the street of Ma Shearim, we ended our day by visiting The Belz Great Synogogue בית כנסת בעלז where we met our first, on this trip so far, Hasidic Jewish speaker, who shared insights into Haredi and Hasidic communities. His presentation, marked by his personal views on both Israeli and Jewish society, challenged many of us at Neshama, eliciting reactions that ranged from dissent, but for some, outright curiosity. Regardless of whether you agree or disagree with his opinions, it is essential to acknowledge and understand them, as they highlight perspectives that are deeply rooted in a community that plays a significant and integral role in Israeli society. I don't really agree with the Haredi’s opinions regarding the religious portions of Judaism and their solutions to it, but when it comes to the idea that Judaism is losing its defining aspects as it slowly fades away, I have to agree that it is happening, and something must be done beyond constantly reforming the religion, further dividing Jews into more groups. I felt honored and delighted by the respectful invitation to the Haredi synagogue, a gesture not often extended to non-Haredi individuals or “tourists” like ourselves. Afterward, we returned to Agron and enjoyed ample free time to process the information and prepare for the days ahead.

• Wednesday, March 5 & Thursday, March 6

  Matt:

   

  We remained busy as we wrapped up our final days in Tel Aviv. Wednesday morning, we got on the bus to the Florentine Neighborhood in Tel Aviv. After meeting with our tour guide, we went to see and hear about the graffiti covering walls throughout the community. We saw a somber mural created just a few days ago memorializing the Bibas family. While learning about Florentine’s graffiti history we kept our eyes open for the fourteen hidden bears attached to buildings trying to find them all. Although we missed a few we saw many interesting pieces of art along the way.

   

  Next, we headed to Rabin Square, where we learned about the tragic assassination of Prime Minister Yitzhak Rabin. Rabin had signed a controversial deal in his pursuit of peace, leading to an increase in terror attacks and protests. An Israeli struck down Rabin after a peace rally, leaving his work unfinished. We gathered around Kikar Rabin to reflect on Rabin's legacy and his hope for peace.

   

  We visited Kikar haChatufim, Hostage Square, where a seder table is set up for all the hostages. We walked through a mock Hamas tunnel where we were able to glimpse at the harsh conditions that the hostages were kept in. Afterwards we sang Acheinu and Hatikvah.

   

  For lunch we traveled to Sarona Market, a large food court with a wide variety of options. Afterwards we went to have fun on the beach. It was a relaxing grade bonding activity.

  After dinner we had the opportunity to hear from a panel of alumni. Each had a unique story to share about their experience about living in Israel and were happy to share. It was interesting what had motivated them to make this decision and what they have struggled with.

   

  Today (Thursday) was an early wake up. We visited the ANU Museum of the Jewish People. There we learned about our history throughout the ages. Getting such a wide perspective of how many different time periods there were, demonstrated the resilience of the Jewish People. Next up was the Olympics Experience Exhibit. It was an interactive experience information being conveyed in a movie that played throughout each room. We learned about the origin of the Olympics and Israelis that have won medals in their respective sports. Additionally, we learned about the horrific terror attack during the 1972 Summer Olympics, where several Israeli athletes were murdered.

   

  Finally we rode bikes around Park Hayarkon and went on a bike tour to Port Tel Aviv.
  
  

  As we made our way back to Jerusalem, we began saying goodbye to our friends as they left for their free weekends. We have had an eventful couple days and we are all looking forward to sending shabbat with our families.

• Tuesday, March 4

  Rachel:

  We began today with breakfast in our hotel, as we do every day, and then headed out to meet our tour guide for our tour of South Tel Aviv. We visited parts of Tel Aviv that had a more suburban feel—areas with no tall buildings, open spaces, and quiet streets. The tour guide shared that this part of Tel Aviv was once home to many refugees, but today it is a neighborhood undergoing change with young people moving in as well. Along the way, Kim and Omer, our rishonim, joined us on the tour since they are back in Israel for a week.

  After exploring the area, we visited the Bina Mechina, where we participated in a discussion about the extent to which Israel should welcome immigrants. We talked about how, during the Holocaust, Jews had no designated safe place to go, so Israel should be a refuge for people in need today. We also discussed a verse from the Bible: “The stranger who resides with you shall be to you as one of your citizens; you shall love him as yourself, for you were strangers in the land of Egypt” (Leviticus 19:33). This passage encourages compassion and empathy for those who seek a better life, a lesson that resonates deeply in today’s global context. However, we also considered the challenges of an open border, acknowledging that Israel must balance welcoming newcomers with the responsibility of prioritizing the needs and safety of its own citizens.

   

  Following the discussion, we had the privilege of hearing from Adam, an African refugee who came to Israel in 2008. He shared his incredible journey of leaving his homeland, traveling through Egypt, and eventually reaching Israel. Adam spoke about his life in Israel and the support he has received in transitioning to a new life, highlighting the opportunities and challenges of building a new home in a foreign country.

  Next, we visited Shuk HaCarmel, a bustling marketplace filled with an array of sights and sounds. People enjoyed schnitzel sandwiches, malawach, and other traditional Israeli foods. The market also had a wide range of shops selling jewelry, t-shirts, and various souvenirs. It was a vibrant and lively place to explore, offering a real taste of local culture.

   

  We wrapped up the day with dinner back at the hotel, followed by an intense game of musical chairs. It was a fun way to end an enriching and thought-provoking day.

• Monday, March 3

  Rachel:

  Today marked our first day outside of Jerusalem since arriving in Israel. We traveled down to the area of the Gaza envelope. When we arrived at our first stop, Kibbutz Kfar Aza, the sky was bright blue, and the weather was perfect. Yet, this peaceful setting contrasted sharply with the horrors we witnessed at the kibbutz. This kibbutz was one of the first to be attacked by Hamas on October 7. Over 60 residents were killed and 19 were taken hostage.

   

  Shahar, one of the three remaining residents of Kfar Aza, guided us through the destruction of the Kibbutz. Each house which was destroyed was now marked with spray painted symbols. One symbol was the number of bodies found, and if it had a large "C" on it, it meant that soldiers had “cleared” it of any human remains or bombs. Every home was in ruins. Outside on the front yards, amidst the rubble and devastation, we saw children's bicycles. I found it difficult to comprehend how a place that once thrived was now reduced to destruction.

   

  Shahar shared with us his experience of returning to his kibbutz after the attack, and as I stood on the same ground, I couldn’t help but imagine the horrors that had unfolded there. The grass beneath my feet, the flowers around me—these had once been the scene of unimaginable violence. We were allowed to enter a few of the homes where residents were killed. Inside, the damage was overwhelming—bullet holes and remnants of grenades scarred the walls. Yet, despite the destruction, some personal items were untouched: dish soap still on the sink, clothes scattered across the floor, sneakers placed by the door. It felt incredibly real to see items I recognized, like Nike shoes and books I have in my bookshelf at home, left behind, frozen in time since October 7.

   

  In one house, a detail caught my eye: a poster of a screenshot of a final conversation between a victim and her mother. The victim’s last words—"Mom, I hear them"—are seared into my memory. Almost every home displayed signs detailing whether the residents were brutally murdered or taken hostage. Walking through the rows of houses felt raw, as so much of the kibbutz was left untouched since the attack.

   

  Our tour concluded with us stopping at the bottom of the kibbutz right next to the Gaza border, where we looked out towards Gaza City. Standing so close to the border, I began to understand how easily Hamas had infiltrated the area. By the end of the tour, my emotions were all over the place. I felt nauseous, heartbroken, disgusted, and other feelings which I cannot describe in words.

   

  Next, we visited the site of the Nova Festival, where memorials for the murdered victims were attached to poles throughout the area where the concert took place and where the victims were savagely attacked. Each memorial featured a photo and a brief description of the individual, often written by family or friends. I read their stories, each one giving me a glimpse into the person was. Learning about each victim—who they were, their passions, and their dreams—brought them to life. These memorials were heart wrenching and yet they also described the victims’ love for life. 

   

  Afterwards, we davened Mincha and finished by singing Hatikva. The song brought tears to our eyes. It was a powerful reminder of the strength of the Jewish people.

   

  We then visited the bomb shelters where people fled during the festival. The shelters, small and crowded, were suffocating with just ten of us inside, even though they had sheltered thirty people on October 7. Now, they serve as memorials, adorned with photos and candles. 

   

  Our final stop was a site filled with destroyed cars, abandoned by people fleeing Hamas. It was shocking to see some of these cars, with the personal belongings still inside. However, most of the cars were brown because they were burned beyond recognition. It was a stark reminder of the chaos that unfolded that day.

   

  As we boarded the bus to continue on to Tel Aviv, people were largely silent, processing what they had just witnessed.

• Sunday, March 2

  Maya:

   

  To conclude Neshama’s first week in Israel, the group woke up early to embark on our first hike (Shvil Ha'Ma'ayanot). We journeyed through the Jerusalem Hills, navigating grassy, mountainous terrain, all while taking in the breathtaking views of both the city of Jerusalem and its surrounding forests. The group paused at a refreshing spring, where some jumped into the cool waters, while others danced to music played from a classmate’s speaker. The hike provided a wonderful opportunity to bond with fellow classmates, whether it was offering a hand to help someone up a steep rock or singing together to lift each other's spirits—an experience that truly encapsulated the essence of Neshama: cultivating a supportive and caring community. At the end of our adventure, the group was tasked with preparing a barbecue lunch. Dividing into various roles—fire starters, grillers, salad makers, burger seasoners, pita cookers, and more—everyone had a chance to contribute their skills toward the collective goal of creating a delicious meal. After enjoying a satisfying lunch of hamburgers, pita, salad, and spreads, we made our way back to Agron to prepare for Shabbat. Neshama welcomed the day of rest with Kabbalat Shabbat songs, a festive meal, games, and a peaceful night’s sleep.

   

  Following a restful night, the group gathered for a delicious Shabbat lunch before heading out for Mincha prayer, accompanied by a thoughtful reflection on our journey in the Dvar Torah. Afterward, we walked to a nearby park (Liberty Bell Park - Gan HaPa'amon), where we enjoyed snacks, played sports, and spent time relaxing together. With a well-planned itinerary for Shabbat, Vad Neshama led a program to help us reflect on and prepare for our visit to the Nova Festival site. It was deeply moving to hear the personal stories of those lost on October 7th, especially those connected to our classmates. The evening continued with laughter and joy as we sang and swayed during Havdalah, before enjoying dinner on the lively and vibrant Ben Yehuda Street.

   

  As we reflect on our first Shabbat in Israel, Neshama, this trip has been a beautiful reminder of how shared experiences, both challenging and joyful, create lasting bonds within a community. From the hike through the Jerusalem Hills to the laughter and teamwork around the barbecue, every moment has deepened our connection to one another. We have begun to understand the true essence of Neshama—not just as a group of individuals, but as a collective, supportive family, united in our journey. As we continue to explore and grow together, the memories we've made during this first week will serve as a foundation for the strong relationships and meaningful experiences that lie ahead.

• Thursday, February 27

  Sophia:
  Another day, another Kotel visit! It’s crazy we are living a 15-minute walk from the holiest place of the Jewish people. But this time, rather than pray to the wall we took the guarded up wooden walkway up to the Temple Mount (Hiram al Sharif). Not to mention…we had a very special visitor Mr. Grossman!! It was so great to see him, and I truly think he was deeply touched that with being in Israel now, we all appreciate his Modern Israel class soooo much and how well he had prepared us. So here we were on the top of the Temple Mount where the second temple stood dating all the way back to 70 CE! (Rob has engraved random dates I never thought I would know in our minds) Today, the Dome of the Rock stands in essentially the same spot as the second temple, and even though we could not go inside to see the rock that “began the world” (or was maybe the almost-place Issac for sacrificed by Abraham), we appreciated the history from afar. Rob made a good point—how could we learn all about Christianity and not about Islam? So today was the day to even out the playing grounds. We learned about the Al Aqsa Mosque, and why we shouldn’t be seen with Kippot or siddurs after the early 2000’s with the whole Ariel Sharon incident. We also spoke about the political religious war that is ongoing. Everyone is trying to one up each other, like how the Dome of the Rock is built on top of the second temple ruins where now the Jewish sanctity of the place cannot longer be upheld. I found it interesting to learn about this, especially in the midst of war in Israel where everything is political! No matter how antisemitic riots or vandalism or other’s actions may be, I feel like it is all now categorized as political and under this general umbrella that in a way undermines the severity. But once again, Rob’s gift worked his magic and every word that came out of his mouth is now stored somewhere in my brain! Maybe to be shared again or maybe just to have. If anyone reading this has any other questions feel free to reach out, I would love to share more! 

   

  Anyhow, we then met Sister Margaret!! I was only slightly expected a full nun outfit, but she really solidified this connection between Christianity and Judaism and how not only do they feel like branches of the same tree but can co-exist and even support each other! Another lunch pizzur, and a visit to The Temple Institue, a group of Jews who want to build a third temple, and then it was free time (Aka nap time)!

  Sophia:

  These days have gone by relatively fast but also slow. I wanted to quickly mention a spontaneous speaker we had in the Jewish quarter yesterday. While we were sitting, a Jewish woman who made Aliyah was so excited to see a group of American tourists that she spoke to our group about her experience moving to Israel from Detroit and her processing the war. This is what Neshama is all about: getting the authentic Israeli experience and learning how important Israel is to not only the Jewish people but each and every individual. Whenever someone asks, I always forget we are only on our first week in Israel. My legs are now sore, and my brain is filled to the brim and my soul—or Neshama—is slowly feeling a shift. I’m not exactly sure what it is yet, but I can’t wait to find out!

• Wednesday, February 26

  Sophia:
  It’s crazy to write about these days so casually, like here we just walked to the kotel or there we went to the most sacred place for Christian’s in literally the whole world. But that is in fact what our day consisted of. We started with an emotional and spiritual morning at the kotel, leaving notes and prayers to bring the wall back to life. After a delicious pizzur in the Jewish quarter filled with bargaining for shawafel (shawarma + falafel) and rebar smoothies, we were off to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Like I mentioned earlier, it’s a surreal feeling to be in this sacred place to the largest religion in the world just walking around on a tour. I had no idea there are over 250 sects of Christianity in the world! A memorable thing Rob told us was that because the religion is so vast and diverse; they had to essentially section off parts of this massive church to represent everyone. This dispute is rooted so deeply that Muslims have the key to the church! So anyway, we learned in even more depth about this religion and really how closely connected we are to them—like how the wafers and wine that represents Jesus’s body in Christian tradition come from a Passover seder of matzah and wine! I honestly felt enlightened. Although this place was filled with things I did not believe in or agree with, it was easy to understand where they came from and appreciate the sanctity of this beautiful and grand church. After a heavy day of learning and walking, the rest of the day was pretty chill and a good time to catch up on some sleep most neshaminks have been waiting for! 

• Tuesday, February 25

  Sophia:

   

  I want to start off by saying that even though I’ve been on this trip for almost 2 weeks now, today felt like the first REAL day of Neshama. Let me explain: these past few weeks have literally changed my life and perspective on the Jewish world and my own personal Jewish identity. Yet I’ve always envisioned Neshama as hard hikes and sun beaming down and experiential learning and crazy adventures and that was all packed into today. 

   

  We first had solid Israeli breakfast and headed to our first destination: Har HaTzofim. With an incredible view of the west side of Jerusalem (and even Jordan in the distance) along with Marissa’s balancing skills to hold the shape of Israel with her body, we reviewed the geography of the land. Next, Rob was really embracing his role of tour guide— guiding us to look out the left or right windows on the way to Har HaZeitim. Especially after our modern Israel class last semester, it was really incredible to see with my own eyes the West Bank out one window and East Jerusalem right across from the other window. We learned about the sanctity of this place to the Jews and the even deeper connection Christian tradition has with the place. We then walked down a crazy steep hill (that the whole time I was praying we would not have to walk back up) and visited beautiful churches filled with mosaics and gold and paintings and views of Jerusalem from every seat. I had never been in a church before then and I appreciated the tradition Rob taught us to say the shema before entering. Some Jews feel it is forbidden to even enter a church, but Rob explained the rabbis didn’t want Jews to be swayed or influenced by Christian ideals. Therefore, by saying the shema to ourselves we are reaffirming our Jewish identities and reminding ourselves of the strictly educational purpose of this visit. In one Greek Orthodox Christian church, I couldn’t help but stare at a rock Christians believed was where Mary (Jesus’s mother) passed and was laied to rest. I hate to say it, but I was a bit judgmental at first. I questioned how these people could line up for hours in line waiting to pray and leave notes to a rock! And then I realized…uh the kotel!?? We literally do the same thing! I had a moment of awareness; I was so quick to judge these foreign beliefs, and I wondered what other religions thought of us! For the rest of the day, I never thought like that again and put everything in perspective and actually found all these places that Jesus crossed path with that have therefore become something incredibly holy the most interesting part of these churches. People wait their whole lives to visit these sites so who am I to judge? We also went into this cool cave/burial site with thousand-year-old graves. We had to use candles for our only source of light (very down to earth I know!) 

   

  Before I move on, I want acknowledging Robs true gift of making people listen. I never thought I would be at these beautiful sights and on unimaginable adventures and be awe-struck by the source sheet in my hand. Unfortunately, I can’t go into it all in this entry, but I feel that I absorbed literally everything he said. Not only did I think it was interesting, but it was immensely important to me to listen. Soon, all of us are going off to college or gap years and wherever life takes us thereafter and will essentially “pop” our little Jewish bubble. Being educated on all people and religions of the world is imperative in forming informed opinions and making our way through interactions.

   

  Aside from this more “textbook” learning, we had great opportunities for experiential learning! What is now most people’s new highlight of the trip, the water tunnels were a crazy tightly packed echo-y and dark adventure we embarked on together. We learned the history of the city of David and how they used water tunnels to transfer water around the mountain as protection. We then walked 40 minutes in a narrow and dark tunnel taking pictures, vlogging, laughing, and obviously singing everything from Adele to Ani VeAta. And to end off the day, we got a 2 hour pizzur on Ben Yehuda street!!!

• Monday, February 24

  Daniella:

  February 24, 2025, marks our first day in Israel! We landed at 2:00 AM, and although it was very late, we were all filled with excitement as our journey continued to grow. This morning, we took time to settle into Agron, exploring the hostel, organizing our suitcase situations, and enjoying a delicious lunch. Afterward, we visited Har Herzl, where we paid our respects at the grave of Theodor Herzl, a prominent Zionist, and continued on to the graves of other famous Jewish leaders. Visiting these graves was deeply meaningful, as we stood in the presence of those who helped establish Israel as a recognized country.

   

  At Har Herzl, there are also many graves dedicated to IDF soldiers who were killed in combat on and after October 7th, 2023. We had the opportunity to walk around and reflect at the graves, which was an emotional experience, but we were grateful to honor the soldiers who gave their lives to defend Israel. Our fellow student, Rose Berman, shared the story of Rose Lublin, an IDF soldier who tragically lost her life in a terror attack on November 6th, 2023, while protecting a police station. Rose Lublin, a lone soldier, was deeply committed to fighting for the innocent and for the State of Israel. She was highly respected within her community, and her loss, along with that of every soldier, was profoundly heartbreaking.

   

  After visiting Har Herzl, we walked to Beit HaKerem, where we had time to reflect on everything, we had seen at Har Herzl, buy toiletries, and enjoy some Israeli food! Once we finished, we returned to Agron, where we were treated to a wonderful dinner prepared by the amazing staff. To cap off the night, we participated in a grade bonding activity led by our madrichim. During this activity, we were given white socks and used colored markers to write down our hopes and goals for the duration of Neshama. We then shared our hopes and goals with one another, which sparked a great discussion.

   

  Today was a day filled with all kinds of emotions, and we are so grateful to finally be in the most beautiful country, Israel.

• Saturday, February 22

  Marissa:

   

  Today, Neshama enjoyed our last day in Poland! We’re really excited to finally be heading to Israel, but before our flight, we had a great final day. The morning started off nicely because we all got to “sleep in” (breakfast wasn’t until 8:30!). We spent the morning walking around Krakow, and our first stop was the Umshalgplatz, right across from our hotel. The Umshalgplatz is a Holocaust memorial, a large square filled with empty chairs arranged in a way that encourages deep reflection. The square marks the place where the Jews of Krakow were rounded up and kept to be sent to concentration camps or death camps. We took some time to discuss what the memorial might represent, and many people shared their own interesting interpretations. After that, we each found a quiet spot around the area to write letters to our future selves, thinking about what we most want to remember from our time in Poland. This was especially meaningful for me because it felt good to put into words the most impactful moments of this trip, moments I’ll carry with me forever. It also felt like the perfect way to bring some closure to a week filled with powerful and intense emotions.

   

  After our visit to the Umshalgplatz, we continued walking around Krakow and stopped by Koby’s grandmother’s house, where he told us about his family’s connection to the Shoah. We also heard some powerful stories from three more Neshamaniks—Noa, Mia, and Cayla—who each shared fascinating and inspiring family histories. By the time we wrapped up, it was already lunchtime! We had our first Pizur meal of the trip and had a little over an hour to explore and grab lunch in Kazimierz. It was a charming area, with lots of shops selling clothes and jewelry, kind of like a shuk. A few friends and I grabbed lunch at a cute local restaurant, where we tried three different flavors of pierogi, some pasta, and salad. The potato and cheese pierogi were my favorite, and it was nice to try some local food.

   

  After lunch, we hopped on the bus for a four-hour drive to Warsaw, picking up our second suitcase for Israel along the way. Our flight takes off late tonight, and everyone’s buzzing with excitement to get to Israel! We had a great day, and we can’t wait to arrive and start the next part of our journey!

• Friday, February 21

  Austin:

  Yesterday, we began as usual at breakfast, packing boxed lunch for the day. We then cleaned up breakfast and loaded up the bus for a 90-minute car ride to Oświęcim, the town that Auschwitz was named after by the Germans. 

   

  After arriving at the camp, we entered through the Polish Security Checkpoint. We then received audio devices connected to microphones operated by the museum tour guides, Magda and Mauricz.

   

  Auschwitz first opened at the beginning of the Second World War to serve as a prison camp for Polish prisoners and political dissidents. It was not until the Wannsee Conference that the camp was converted into an extermination center for Jews. 

   

  Due to the evolution of the camp's functions, the buildings were extremely diverse in architecture. The Nazis also modified several existing buildings to suit their evolving needs. For example, Auschwitz I contained one gas chamber that was converted towards the end of the war to a bomb shelter.
  
  

  Some of the administrative buildings have been turned into museum exhibits. One such building that we were in contained several photographs of the camp taken by a prisoner detailing the day-to-day operations. It also contained several historical artifacts, such as stolen shoes, locks of hair, suitcases, Tallisim, etc. 

   

  We stayed there for about two hours and then took a break for lunch. After lunch, we drove for about five minutes to Auschwitz II – Birkenau. In 1941, the Polish Government in Exile wrote, "the Auschwitz concentration camp ...can accommodate approximately 7,000 prisoners at present, and is to be rebuilt to hold approximately 30,000."

   

  Although much of the camp was either destroyed by the Nazis covering evidence, nearby Poles scrounging materials, or revolting acts of Judaic heroism, we were still able to see the trains' entry gate and the selection platform.

   

  The group gathered around at various points along the tour path so that some students could share family stories in connection with the site. Six students presented about Jews who were murdered or died Al Kiddush Hashem , from Greece all the way to the Polish-Russian border. 

   

  At the conclusion of the tour, we held a brief ceremony honoring those who perished at Auschwitz. Each student also had the opportunity to name any relative who perished at the hand of the Third Reich before the memorial prayer (El Maleh Rachamim), which I read, noting my Great-Grand Uncle Nathan Kohn, who died in a Displaced Persons Camp in the days following liberation by the Soviets. 

        
  We arrived back in Krakow 20 minutes before candle lighting, and all changed into nicer attire. From there the group walked to "The Temple", a synagogue dating back to 1862. A common misconception was that it was a Reform Congregation. Although it coexisted with the early Reform movement, it was a traditional Shul with separate seating and a full Matbeah. One suggestion I heard from a Krakow community leader was that it was because the Rabbi was fairly progressive in his opinions. 

   

  Interestingly on 1920, he preached on the first Shabbat after Simchas Torah that he was of the opinion that in 20 years, waves of antisemitism would persecute the Jewish people and that the Balfour Declaration was a step in the right direction.  

   

  Shabbos davening was the perfect pick-me-up. GOA combined with Gann Academy of Greater Boston, as well as other school and young-professional trips. We also ran into Max Bruch, Golda Och Academy Class of 2016. Kabbalat Shabbat brought forth the experience of dancing together as one nation, regardless of origin. Horas and Kongo-Lines were a highlight. 

   

  Dinner was held at the Krakow JCC. We had the opportunity to hear from the Director, Jonathan Ornstein, a fellow NY-Metro native, who explained the JCC's roles and functions. We actually dined in a room that collected food for the Ukrainian refugees, over 90% of whom are not Jewish.

   

   

  After today's breakfast, we had Davening at the Remuh Synagogue, Rav Moshe Isserles' own Shul. Once again, we were joined by several other visiting students and young professionals touring Krakow. Ari Jacobs received the fourth Aliyah, and I was asked to open the ark during the Torah Service.  

   

  In the early afternoon, we had the opportunity to hear from Christina Ludmila-Kril, the daughter of a Righteous Gentile. She told us her mother's story and brought honors she received from Yad Vashem and various governments. It was very moving to hear about upstanders who supported our people during a time of adversity.

   

  We concluded Shabbat with a group conversation on Theodicy. Rabbi Nevins gave a brief introduction and discussed various opinions about where God was in the Holocaust. To have more shared voices, we broke into four smaller groups. We also discussed the balance between divine providence and human free will as explanations for man-made tragedies.  

   

  Well, Havdalah just concluded, and I have a lot of packing ahead of me as the rest of Neshamah travels to Jerusalem and I return to New Jersey to begin my internship—more on that in future blog posts. 

• Thursday, February 20

  Jesse:

   

  This morning, we took a short walk from our hotel in Łańcut to the Łańcut synagogue. There we met with Mirik, a Christian man who has preserved the synagogue, learned Hebrew, and studies Torah. This synagogue and greater Łańcut area were home to a vibrant Jewish community. A community and synagogue which after hundreds of years of meaningful and powerful prayer, went silent. Rob has told us a recurring idea each synagogue we visit. He helps us focus on the walls of the synagogue. Walls that haven’t heard prayer in so long. Each time we daven shacharit in these synagogues, it feels like a small revival of a lost community. Rob likes us to think what the walls might feel or how much they may have missed heartful prayer. 

   

  From there, we visited the pretty town of Tarnow, another once large Jewish town. A town whose synagogue was burnt to the ground and whose people were senselessly murdered in there homes, rounded up, and sent to their deaths.

   

  A short drive away from Tarnow is Zbylitowska Góra, the mass grave of Children. When the Nazis entered Tarnow, they brought those who weren’t killed on the spot to the Forrest and murdered them in mass graves. This was one of the hardest parts of the trip, the site of the murder of Tarnow’s children, representing the 1.5 million children killed in the holocaust. The potential of 1.5 million lives taken away. Rob brought attention to history repeating itself. This same day we visit the children’s graves, the Bibas baby’s, Kfir and Ariel, return to Israel in caskets. 80 years later, Jewish baby’s are still being murdered for simply being Jewish.

   

  After shacharit this morning, Rob asked us, through four days in Poland, what emotions we were feeling. Here is my answer: 

   

  I have felt a lot of anger in these past few days. We are exposed to this overwhelming amount of pain and death, and yet I feel hopelessly distant. I can’t help but keep thinking about a stolen potential. The potential of 6 million lives, hundreds of thousands of Jewish communities, and thousands of synagogues burned to the ground. These feeling of anger and despair have slowly turned to strength, resilience, and hope. For all of those who were silenced as a result of the Shoah, I want to dedicate a part of my life to them by strengthening my Judaism. These few days in Poland have been the best davening of my life. I have tried to wrap tefillin each day and all around be more passionate about my Judaism. As I look to college, I want to be proudly and publicly Jewish and I want to share the stories the we learned here in Poland about the Shoah, keeping a part of the 6 million souls alive.

   

  The rest of the day was much lighter than at the beginning. We got to Krakow at around 5 and had some free time to make a dent in the city's pierogi supply. Afterwards, we had second dinner and headed to the hotel for an early night in anticipation of tomorrow’s early morning.

• Wednesday, February 19

  Noga:

   

  Today was a very meaningful and emotional day on Neshama. We started our morning heading from the hotel to Yeshivat Lublin, which has been beautifully restored after the Nazis burned over 20,000 books. Standing in that sacred space, we learned about Rabbi Meir Shapiro, who passed away before the Holocaust but left behind the tradition of "Daf Yomi," a daily practice of studying one page of Gemara, spanning 2,711 pages over seven and a half years. Though he didn’t live to see the war, his teachings lived on. Many of his students, however, were tragically taken to Majdanek—our next stop of the day.

   

  A short bus ride brought us to the entrance of Majdanek, where we spent four heavy and meaningful hours learning about our people’s tragic history. It’s difficult to put into words what it feels like to enter an extermination camp. The air was suddenly colder, and a light snowfall accompanied our first steps onto the rocky path. It was as if the place itself carried the weight of its past.

   

  Walking through the gas chambers, we saw the dark blue stains of Zyclon B gas still tainting the walls and the rusted showerheads hanging from the ceiling. We continued through the crematorium, the barracks, and other preserved structures, reading testimonies of those who endured unimaginable horrors. One story that stuck with me was that of Halina Birenbaum, who was only 14 when she arrived. Her mother was torn from her upon arrival, and her sister-in-law became the only person left to look after her. Halina would pick weeds under barbed wire—risking electrocution—just to avoid interactions with Nazi guards, a small glimpse into the overwhelming fear that consumed every prisoner. The sadness and eeriness of Majdanek were raw and palpable, resonating deeply with all of us.

   

  We paused to listen to Josh's family story, which made the experience even more personal and emotional. His words reminded us of the importance of remembrance and connection to our own Jewish identities.

   

  One quote in the museum stayed with me: Piotr Kiriszczenko wrote, "You wake up in the morning, you wake your mate, and he is dead—but you are not afraid of the corpse." That level of suffering, that emotional numbness, is something I can’t even begin to comprehend. This morning, I woke up and saw Emily, alive and well, and I was struck by the sheer privilege of not having to fear for my friends’ lives. It’s hard to fathom a world where that wasn’t the case.

   

  After circling Majdanek, we got back on the bus and headed to the grave and memorial of Rebbe Elimelech. There, we had an important discussion about Haredim, Hasidim, and the various sects of Judaism, reflecting on how the ultra-Orthodox movement had to rebuild itself after the Holocaust. We learned how Rebbe Elimelech helped guide lost Jews and played a role in the rebirth of modern Judaism. To honor his legacy, we held a small tish, eating Israeli snacks, singing songs, and celebrating our connection to Jewish tradition. As we boarded the bus, the singing continued—though the playlist took a turn to Bruno Mars, Adele, and Rihanna, bringing some lightness to the heavy emotions of the day.

   

  Our final stop was a breathtaking glass memorial honoring The Righteous Among the Nations—the brave Polish people who risked or gave their lives to save Jews during the Holocaust at the Ulma Family Museum of Poles Saving Jews in WWII. We listened to Jordyn’s touching family story and reflected on the role these individuals played in history. Seeing the glowing names of those courageous souls reminded us that even in the darkest times, there were those who chose to stand up for what was right.

   

  As we arrived at our third hotel of the trip (in the city of Lancut), we ate dinner and reflected on the day during zman mishpacha. Words like “hell” and “horrifying” were used to describe the conditions in Majdanek, and moments like seeing the heaps of shoes and cramped sleeping situation stuck with us the most. As we processed our emotions in our little “family”, we established the importance of remembrance, and connection. It reinforced the weight of our history and our responsibility to carry it forward. More than anything, it was a reminder that while we mourn the past, we also embrace the strength, resilience, and unwavering spirit of our people.

   

  Before we went to sleep, we spent time as a grade and got to know our madrichim better, forming a strong bond and sense of trust to continue to share difficult, profound feelings.

• Tuesday, February 18

  Shayne:

   

  Today was a long, busy day. At our Zman Mishpacha meeting at the end of the day, we talked a bit about how sometimes temporarily focusing on a smaller, more specific part of a massive tragedy can help you process it, and so I’m going to focus on music as a common thread.

   

  We started our day bright and early at 7:00 AM for breakfast at our Warsaw hotel, before driving two hours northeast to the town of Tykocin.

   

  Tykocin was once the site of a thriving Jewish community, and in 1642 they constructed a beautiful synagogue, with fortress-like walls several feet thick and a colorful ceiling and central frieze above the ark. Wealthy community members who had donated to the synagogue were honored with prayers, possibly of their own choosing, brightly painted onto the stucco walls inside the main sanctuary. I kid you not when I say that this was the most beautiful synagogue, I’ve ever been in. During our orientation day on Friday, we were asked where we felt most spiritual, and I answered that I don’t connect with most synagogue buildings; I typically feel much more inspired in places of nature, old cemeteries, ruins, even cathedrals and mosques. This synagogue, however, was unlike any I had ever seen. 

   

  Aly and I led a joyous Tefillah service (much less rushed this time!), and at Jesse’s request we sang Mah Tovu, which we probably have not sung as a full grade since fifth grade. We also sang Psalm 29 (Mizmor LeDavid, Havu LAdonai…) and danced the hora between the botanical patterns and Hebrew texts painted in bright blues and oranges and reds along the walls. 

   

  Those walls do not hear prayers anymore, except for when tour groups like us visit. There are no Jews left in Tykocin. In 1941, when the Nazis reconquered the village during Operation Barbarossa, the entire Jewish community of Tykocin was marched out to the Łopuchowo forest and shot beside large pits. Still in the synagogue, Katriela shared her family’s story from the shtetl of Radzilova, where, emboldened by the Nazis but fueled by long-standing antisemitism, local Poles forced all of the Jews into a barn and set it on fire. After a short visit to the poorly-maintained old Jewish cemetery, whose graves are mostly toppled and covered in grasses, we rode to the site of the death pits. We read the words of a woman who had survived a similar slaughter in another village, and who lived to testify at Adolf Eichmann’s trial in Jerusalem in 1961. 

   

  We also had Noga share her family’s story from Łódź, and Aly talked about how her family survived by hiding in the forested mountains with a partisan cell. Our madrichah Shakked, inspired by Aly’s story, shared the English lyrics of Bella Ciao, an Italian song sung by a partisan to the Nazis, telling her to bury him in the mountains if the Nazis kill him and continue the fight for freedom. 

   

  After Tykocin, we drove an hour and a half to Treblinka. We first watched a short film in the small museum describing the layout and operation of the death camp: how it was disguised as a transit camp with a mock railway station and infirmary tent to avoid mass panic, how dogs and soldiers chased the naked Jews as they walked along the “Road to Heaven” gauntlet, how at least 850,000 people were murdered there. The Nazis razed the entire camp in 1943 to hide the evidence of their crimes, so all that stands today are memorials and stone markers denoting where guard towers and train tracks once stood. On the walk to the main memorial, Solomon told us about how his Polish great-grandfather escaped to France and managed to survive there, and Maya told us about how her great-great-grandparents were slaughtered at Babi Yar, a ravine near Kyiv, after surviving the first selection. She further explained how the Soviet authorities refused to acknowledge the Judaism of Babi Yar’s victims, and how a Russian rocket damaged the memorial site in 2022 during the ongoing War in Ukraine.

   

  Rob also told us the story of how a Modzitzer Chasid, a sect known for their niggunim and songs, invented the popular melody to Ani Ma’amin while in a cattle car en route to Treblinka, and we sang the eery hymn as we walked to the main Treblinka memorial. The memorial features hundreds of upright stones, representing various Jewish communities destroyed at the death camp, with the exception of a single stone dedicated to the educator Janusz Korczak, who bravely marched to the death with the children of his orphanage despite being offered a chance to escape. In the center stands a tall stone monument, with bas-reliefs depicting Jews packed into the gas chambers, as well as a menorah on the back. I shared the story of my great-great-aunt Chaja Sura, who was murdered at Treblinka alongside her husband and five of her eight children, as well as the story of her son Moishe, who survived seven concentration camps and whose own son is the famous rock musician Geddy Lee. After strolling between the markers on our own for a few minutes, we gathered for our memorial ceremony, where Itai’s mishpacha read poems and prayers, holding Israeli flags. 

   

  Before reciting the Mourners’ Kaddish together, we sang the song Eli, Eli, written by Hannah Szenes, a Hungarian Jew who had made Aliyah but who returned as a paratrooper to support Jews in Nazi-occupied Europe, before being captured and executed by Nazis. The song describes her hope that even as humans do great evil to each other, that the beauty of the natural world is never destroyed:
  
  

  My God, my God,

  may it never end –

  the sand and the sea,

  the rustle of the water,

  the lightning of the sky,

  the prayer of man.
  
  

  I found this song strangely fitting: throughout our visit to Treblinka, flurries of snow sporadically fell from the sky, which was colored gold by one of the most vivid sunsets I have ever seen. 

   

  After leaving Treblinka, we drove three hours to Lublin, where we had dinner (much better than I expected!) and Zman Mishpacha. When we entered the city, the bus speakers began to play Bella Ciao again, and I thought about how even though over 850,000 souls of our people were murdered at Treblinka, we survived. We could still dance the hora to David’s psalm in ancient synagogues; we proclaimed our continued belief with Ani Ma’amin; we witnessed the juxtaposition of mass murder with a beautifully snowy sunset as we sang Eli, Eli; and with Bella Ciao, we expressed our dedication to freedom and the constant resistance that is Jewish life.

• Monday, February 17

  Noam:

   

  First Day:

  Our journey began yesterday when we arrived at school alongside our parents, we came together in the Lower Schol Beit Knesset for a short sendoff tekes, and saying our final goodbyes before embarking on our three-month trip. As our parents departed, we took a moment to wish our classmate Noa a happy 18th birthday, with delicious cupcakes provided by her family.
  
  

  Following this, our grade gathered in our designated classroom, where we reviewed the historical context leading up to the Holocaust and the persecution of Jews. This session provided essential background knowledge before our upcoming visit to Poland. We explored various geographical locations where persecution occurred and examined the differences in the number of murders across different countries. One point that stood out to me was that, despite Germany being a central hub of Holocaust atrocities, it was not the country with the highest number of Jewish deaths.
  
  

  We also engaged in a thoughtful and meaningful discussion about the roots of antisemitism, which particularly resonated with me. After this lesson, we had lunch, which gave us a chance to relax and connect as a grade.
  
  

  Following lunch, we reviewed the expectations and rules for our Neshama trip and had the opportunity to ask any remaining questions. As a group, we discussed what aspects of the trip we were most excited about. These conversations strengthened our sense of community and helped us recognize new elements of the journey to look forward to.
  
  

  Before we knew it, it was time to head to the airport. After the long process of passing through security, checking our bags, and boarding the plane, we finally settled in for the nine-hour flight.

  Upon landing in Poland, we picked up our bags and, despite feeling tired, were excited to meet our four new madrichim: Itay, Ravid, Shakked, and Yuval.
  
  

  Our first destination in Poland was the Warsaw Jewish Cemetery, where we visited several significant memorials. The first was the grave of Dr. Ludwik Zamenhof, the creator of the Esperanto language. The second was a memorial honoring Y.L. Peretz, a renowned Yiddish writer. Some of our classmates had taken a modern Jewish literature course the previous year, where they studied Peretz’s short stories, allowing them to connect their learning to our visit.
  
  

  After visiting a few more sites, we visited the Nozyk Synagogue where we davened Ma'ariv. Following the service, we had dinner and concluded the evening by meeting in our mishpacha (family) groups, led by our madrichim.
  
  

  Overall, the first two days of our journey were a period of transition, helping us set the foundation for the next three months. We gained a deeper understanding of expectations, bonded with our madrichim, and began adjusting to the balance of traveling and visiting significant historical sites.